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Vendors sell various goods to shoppers at "the Thieves' Market" in Baghdad.

Claire Harbage/NPR

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Claire Harbage/NPR

Vendors sell various goods to shoppers at "the Thieves' Market" in Baghdad.

Claire Harbage/NPR

BAGHDAD — There's a warren of narrow walkways in central Baghdad with stalls and little shops, bags of spices and nuts, food and ice cream. The air has a sweet scent, and clusters of men sip tea and chat, or haggle over antiques. They call it "the Thieves' Market."

The last time we were . . .