River Refuge in the Arctic

Written by on May 10, 2023

Swathed in bug netting and waterproof waders, Paul Leonard stepped out onto the edge of a sunlit, rocky bluff overlooking the Porcupine River. At 9 am, he was already six hours into a grueling workday in a remote corner of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in Alaska. 

“Did you hear that?!” he exclaimed. “Downriver, on that steep slope. There!” 

“Che-lek,” the harsh and clipped song called back. “Che-lek.” And then a second . . .

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